If life is a journey then it’s time to travel.

I Cheated on Day Nine

On day nine I rode from Walgett to Brewarrina – I got a 70km lift from John in his covered twin cab ute from Lightning Ridge to Walgett after a 7.00am pickup from the Opal Caravan Park.  Fortunately John’s generous lift enabled me to have a good coffee in Walgett and to get to Brewarrina before dark as the 10-15km headwind for most of the day probably reduced my average speed to around 15kms per hour over the 140kms.  At that speed the extra 70kms would have taken me four or more hours and even a 4.00am start from Lightning Ridge would not have necessarily seen me arriving at Bree before dark.

Not only was John a great lift giver. He also knows how to use the iPhone camera.

It had been raining the night before in the region and the wet patches /puddles on the road were largely drying by 8.30am when I took off from the Walgett levee bank.  At least the sun was shining. 

The wind swept terrain made heavy work and my tender legs particularly the knees and thigh muscles at the end of that day required some special care. 

You are supposed to get the impression of a headwind here at the Briery Station gate.

Fortunately for me there was Glen at the Royal Hotel at Brewarrina who had the right remedy for my knees. He told me about Lectric Soda granules that he gave to me and he loaned me a modified sock so that I could wrap the granules around my particularly tender left knee with the help of some gaffer tape. Apparently: Lectric Soda Crystals are used by a variety of health professionals to help reduce swelling and relieve aching muscles and joints. (from a quick Google search).

Well Electric Soda worked for me by the following day and I thank Glen for his advice and good conversation.

The light before the storm? Fortunately there was only dizzle leaving Bree.

Lightning Ridge Day Seven & Eight

“Carpe diem – Seize the day, seize the opportunity”: seemed to sum up what Roger and Gale Collins are doing with the Black Queen in Lightning Ridge. 

What some of the locals are starting to understand is that Roger and Gale’s efforts are very good for Lightning Ridge and in turn are helping to put Lightning Ridge on the map. 

Unfortunately, I suspect that there are some Lightning Ridge locals who treat them as unwanted outsiders.  This is a phenomena that permeates many small communities in most parts of Australia – I’ll get further into that later. 

Mr & Mrs Collins are taking a lead and showing how a professional business, a tourism attraction, is run.  One of the features of their endeavor has been to enter the Black Queen into various tourism awards where they compete with other tourism businesses in the region, in the State and possibly nationally.  Their efforts have been rewarded and Lightning Ridge has benefitted through the raising of its profile as the town where the Black Queen is located.

 Another feature of Roger & Gale’s work is their use of very clear and sharp advertising to promote their business.  This also benefits Lightning Ridge as each advertising opportunity the Black Queen is involved in directly helps to promote the town as well.

A third feature of their endeavors is the way they are adjusting the placement of their tourism product in the market.  These are opportunities they provide to co-exist with other tourism operators in Lightning Ridge.  Guess what, the 5.00pm evening slot of the “Black Queen Outstanding Outback Theatre…with a twist” is a stroke of genius that is a more natural timing for Gale’s performance and appears to result in increasing the numbers of patrons.  That also benefits Lightning Ridge accommodation providers where the Black Queen patrons stay.  If I was another tourism business in Lightning Ridge I would be very keen to find ways to package my product with that of the Black Queen.

A fourth feature of Roger & Gale’s efforts is the way they treat their patrons.  Excellent customer service is essential in any business but appears to be a key cornerstone of the Black Queen operation.  Guess what, excellent customer service helps to spread the ‘by-word-of-mouth’ promotion for the Black Queen.  Patrons are more likely to tell their friends and relatives about their Black Queen experience as a result of the excellent customer service they receive and they are also more likely to come back for a second and even third visit.  To either have these visitors coming for the first time as a result of a friend or relative spreading the good word about the Black Queen or having the satisfied patron make a return visit is a strong benefit to Lightning Ridge town.

Outsider Phenomena

You have probably heard this before.  There are many smaller communities where you have to have lived at least 30 years and be married to a local to be considered a local.   That’s a load of codswallop!

Outsiders investing in small communities and/or introducing new ideas, is a very effective way to help communities grow.  Locals who don’t understand this process can hinder the very development they often expect one or more of the three tiers of government to provide for them.

The best local communities I have come across make a feature of genuinely welcoming visitors and new residents and businesses into their towns.

Time for reflections

Beautiful scenery and beautiful views etc. will have their appeal at many localities you visit and on journeys along the way, and if you are lucky you will also get to see some of our unique wildlife, such as the local equivalent of what I thought were King Parrots at Westmar, and magnificent trees along the road. 

However, it’s the people at any place that are most likely to be the ‘icing on the cake’ of any visit and when you have friends and relatives to visit they trump all the above.

The sort of place you can have good conversations.

For example, the lady at the Dalby Visitor Information gave me a personal recommendation to see Margaret Rowe masseuse extra-ordinaire at Dalby.  She not only revived my legs and gave some simple ‘do it yourself’ instructions to help the body but also talked about her positive reaction to the book “The Brain That Changes Itself”, a fantastic read – I have given several copies away to friends.  She also talked sense on a whole heap of other things.  If you are in Dalby and you feel the need for a good massage and/or a good conversation, make an appointment to see Margaret Rowe on 07 4662 5673

An elderly gentleman at a Dalby tyre place, I think he was a customer, was immediately on my side to defend my trike and my right to ride the trike to anybody who didn’t agree with me.  He started muttering under his breath about anybody daring to have a counter view.  He thought I had every right to do what I was doing and wished me well on my ride. 

Customer Service

Good customer service essentially amounts to a positive and memorable people experience such as I had with the ladies in the office at the Jacaranda Country Motel in St George.  They engaged in ‘to the point’ conversation with genuine questions and comments.  I later found out that they were the outgoing and incoming leaseholders of the motel in transition.

The New Zealand shearers at Hebel wanted to know how I coped with other vehicles on the road. I explained that drivers had been fantastic in Queensland, giving me a wide berth and the occasional toot etc. and their attitude towards me seemed to be very positive.  I then mentioned that on an earlier ride a couple of weeks back on the Newell Highway a can had been tossed at me from a passing vehicle, it was empty (the can and possibly the can thrower’s head) and missed me – about the only real negative experience I recall.  One of the shearers then suggested what he might do to somebody like that if he had been a witness – my interpretation of what he actually said.

The Black Queen

My reason for being in Lightning Ridge is to see Roger and Gale Collins who own and run the Black Queen, a significant tourist attraction in this very interesting town and they don’t sell opals.  A very innovative couple who have created/are creating (because their innovative ideas being incorporated into their business just don’t stop) a fabulous tourism attraction/facility in Lightning Ridge.

If, for any reason you are near Lightning Ridge on your way through northern NSW, stay a night.  If you do stay in Lightning Ridge between March and October, make sure you take in a performance at the Black Queen.

Cobar & Hillston

I am also looking forward to catching up with my old mate John Martin, promoter of the Kidman Way extra-ordinaire, at Cobar;  And the people celebrating 21 years of the Hillston Community Centre that I was involved in when working for the Carrathool Shire Council, when I get to Hillston on 28 May.  With any luck I’ll see some of the old Councillors and staff from Carrathool Shire Council there too.

The primary feature of positive interactions with the people referred to above and others I have met is that they provide contexts to our communications.  That can also happen with people I meet for the first time. 

Conclusion

I suppose these first time interactions almost always entail ignoring or with-holding your own prejudices (pre-judgement), trusting that other people do the same and having the involvement of genuine intellectual curiosity.   The latter also entails having the capacity to change your mind about ideas and being open to new ideas.  George Bernard Shaw is apparently quoted as saying “Progress requires change and people who cannot change their minds cannot change anything.”

Record Broken on Day 6 From St George

Rode out of the Jacaranda Country Motel (very recommendable) at St George at 7.10am on my watch and at least an hour later than planned after sleeping in – the early starts have given me the edge on previous days – and I rode into Lightning Ridge 229kms later at 8.36pm as I went past the first street lights to read my watch.

It took ten additional minutes to find the Opal Caravan Park where this photo was taken (probably fairy dust) when I arrived.

On the way I stopped in the town of Dirranbandi – Land of the Croaking Frogs and my original planned overnight stop – at 12.00noon for lunch.  Although there was still evidence of cotton along the road to here and beyond and I had seen some semi-trailers carrying cotton, I didn’t see any reference to Cubbie Station in the town’s main street.

On the road from St George at the Dunwold Station gate.

 

At Hebel, the revised planned overnight stop, I had a drink at the Hotel around 4.30pm and got into discussion with a group of New Zealand contract shearers. Young Jeremy had seen more parts of Australia shearing in the last year or so than probably most Australians get to see.  On my arrival at Hebel I really wasn’t sure if I was going to stay the night there. 

My legs were telling me to ‘STAY TONIGHT’ and that’s when I rang my mate Roger at the Black Queen in Lightning Ridge and he said he had booked me a cabin at the Opal Caravan Park (Make a note to stay in one of the cabins at the Opal, it/they are highly recommended – 02 6829 4884). 

At that instance new found energy and determination, Mr Tenacity, took control and I got back on the Trike and the rest is history….in my mind.  Just my legs that have to recover over the next couple of days at Lightning Ridge.

Day Five to St George

At the start of day five I woke up refreshed after a very comfortable night sleep at Westmar. I recommend that if any-one ever travelling through on the Moonie Highway between St George and Dalby and are wondering where to stop for the night contact Judy at the Westmar

Along the road to St George

Roadhouse on 07 4663 0751 and book a cabin for an overnight stay.

Cotton plant growing beside the Moonie Highway.

And still more cotton heading east.

On the ride to St George the trucks transporting cotton became even more obvious than the day before to Westmar. I would estimate that one in 8 or so vehicles on the road was either a load of cotton heading in an easterly direction or an empty road train heading west.  I found out that the cotton heading east was being carted just past Dalby or close on 300kms for the trucks I saw leaving the St George area.  Also found out that I will be passing close by Cubbie Station – the cotton growing capital of Australia – somewhere near Dirranbandi and on my way to Lightning Ridge.

There were fewer hills or just longer and lower slopes to ride up or down and I didn’t have to change down to my lower range of 9 gears once this time.

I also noticed individual trees more and was a bit how common the Cyprus or Murray pine was along some stretched of the highway.

Tomorrow, Day 6, I’ll see how my legs feel, but with any luck I’ll get to Hebel 161kms to the south and… if I can get to Hebel between 3- 4pm I might be tempted to ride another 68kms to Lightning Ridge.  I don’t recall too many hills south of St George but wind conditions may also start playing a role.

On the Road from Westmar.

189 Kilometres on Day Four

 

The early 6.00am cold start from Dalby and the first 80 or so kilometres of very flat flood-prone terrain made it possible.  However, the long low

On the road again.

Very common to see these prickly pear beside the road. Some are 5-6metres tall. Prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is a declared Class 1 pest plant under Queensland legislation

Probably saw 10 B-Trebles today

hills that started well before Moonie (Oil capital of Australia) slowed me down a bit.  It’s certainly the longest distance I have ever travelled on a bike/trike/recumbent under my own power in a day

The sign below is at Moonie and might give you an indication of the location.  In any case, my ride is to St George omorrow, a more reasonable distance of 122kms.

It has to be said that Queensland drivers in both directions have been very polite and considerate and at all times have given me more room on these roads than was probably necessary.

Also discovered the Westmar Roadhouse, a very pleasant stop for overnighting with friendly people and new good cabins with the basics.  Dinner was good and they even sold Strongbow cider by the stubby at the bar.

The Crossroads at Moonie (Oil capital of Australia)

A Queensland green tree frog not displaying quite the right attitude at Westmar.

Begins Here! Dalby

We’ve had the Dalby lay day and I have an on-line tutorial 7-9.00pm tonight for my Swinburne course to finish off the evening.

I’m getting ready for an early start on day four when I plan to ride to Westmar 189kms south west of Dalby.  At least there won’t be any of those significant hills on the way.

Second Day Down & More Hills

After a late start from Blackbutt I arrived in Dalby around 6.00pm.  I rode the last 15kms on the flat after sunset with three tail lights; one flashing on the helmet one flashing from the back of the pannier rack and the fixed tail light powered by the dynamo.  I also have two headlights;  one flashing from the helmet (not quite the strobe light that Marinus wanted me to fix onto the trike, but still quite effective) and the very good headlight powered by the dynamo.

Unfortunately, there were more hills to climb between Blackbutt and Yarraman and still more hills after Yarraman and then…., yes then….. the road went through a deep cutting possibly 20kms past Cooyar on the road to Dalby, when I discovered I was crossing the Great Dividing Range at 619m above sea level (I think that’s about the same height of the Great Divide on the road between Wallan and Kilmore or the nearby Hume Highway crossing of the Great Divide). 

The hill just before the Great Divide (I won't be parking the Trike on any grassy verge like this in NSW because of the likelyhood of catheads/bindies to puncture the tyres.)

 In any case those worthy steep climbs to get to that point were all about crossing the Great Dividing Range.  Its mainly flat country from here on until I get to that stretch of the Kidman Way between Cobar and Hillston where there are some low hills to ride over as well as after Nagambie. 

See if you can say the name of this village quickly ‘Kaimkillenbun‘.

That's the village.

The first Dalby motel I stumbled into had no vacancies (I didn’t notice the three signs when I rode in) and most other places were full or close to full, apparently because of a local mining boom and I’ve been warned that I may also have difficulty getting accommodation at St George, where I hope to be on Wednesday night.  At least these parts of Queensland seem to be booming.

The legs voted and I’ll take a rest day in Dalby and have the Trike tyres looked at this morning.  The sealant I’ve used in the tyres has kept the tyres blown up really well but has also blocked the valves so that I can’t pump the tyres up.

The Ultimate Hill on this journey

The First Day Down

 

The last 20 or so kilometres of today’s ride – approximately 15kms short of my intended first day destination, Yarraman – was a killer and took 2.5 hours from the village of Moore over the Blackbutt Ranges to Blackbutt.  From Blackbutt Online I’m told:

The Blackbutt Ranges assent is winding but only approximately 5-6 Kilometres. As you ascend the ranges you will immediately smell the pine and feel the crisp clean atmosphere.

Didn’t really notice the ‘immediate smell of pine’ as I negotiated the longest section of one lane road works, all up hill, because of 8 or more landslides in January 2011.  I suspect the traffic lights at either end were 5-8kms apart creating long waits at either end, slow moving traffic in either direction when they had the green light and there were long periods of no traffic, almost unbelievable silence that allowed me to hear the bird songs.  And fortunately the low gears on the trike enabled me to keep peddling.   Friendly road worker crew also helped.

However, when I reached the top station and exchanged some friendly words with the three or four workers – pizza for dinner at Blackbutt sounded good - I thought I was within a stone’s throw of Blackbutt and as it was getting dark I was looking forward to heading on that downhill ride into this ‘timber’ town. 

No such luck as the next xxkms to Blackbutt was ridden in just over an hour in the dark and most of this stretch was still uphill – the few down hill stretches were taken very cautiously.  My cycling edge of the road was almost non-existent and I had to ride with two wheels on the unmown grassy verge several times as the orchestrated traffic (remember the green lights on the road works meant there were ‘bunches’ of 20-30 vehicles travelling towards Blackbutt) didn’t slow down for this cyclist on his recumbent trike.  But, they did see me and my red lights coming from behind and only one B-Double truck ’got a bit close’ on a passing lane stretch when he in turn was being overtaken.  In the main the irregular on-coming vehicles also dipped their lights.

And then…when I walked into the Blackbutt hotel where I knew there was accommodation I was told: “You might have to go on to Yarraman as we are fully booked with road crews.”  And Yarraman could be booked out as well…. I didn’t fancy camping somewhere, anywhere in or around Blackbutt.  I just wanted a hot shower and a made bed.  Fortunately, after 5 minutes anxious wait someone handed me a key to room 4 in the local motel up the road a bit (five beds in this room) with its own en-suite and a fridge and coffee and hot water jug (where are those packets of meso soup).  I just couldn’t switch on any heating.

Now for the good bits of this first day.  Cycling around the Glass House Mountains was spectacular.  Unfortunately the iPhone camera didn’t do the scenes justice and funnily enough there was only one picture after Moore (I also kept forgetting that the lens was fogging up in my jacket pocket – perperation from the regular hill climbs).

The Next Saga

I’m game to try it again. But this time it will be on my own Trike without faring.

Fortunately my Trike has had a few major up-grades that have been referred to earlier in this Blog.  I have been riding a couple of hours each day since swapping the trikes and I think I’m right to go.

This time I’m flying up to the Sunshine Coast with my Trike to visit my Mother and will have ten or so days to practice climbing Mount Buderim in preparation for my ride.

I plan to ride back to Melbourne – probably Seymour will do – and am planning on leaving Buderim on Monday 16 May as follows:

Rough Itinerary for TRIKE TRIP
LEAVE BUDERIM ON MONDAY 16 MAY kms Rough estimate
Mon 16 May Yarraman Day 1 145kms or 7-8hrs
Tue 17/05/2011 Dalby Day 2 100kms  or 5-6hrs
Wed 18/05/2011 Westmar Day 3 189kms  or 10+hrs
Thu 19/05/2011 St George Day 4 122kms  0r 6-7hrs
Fri 20/05/2011 Dirranbandi Day 5 95kms  or 5-6hrs
Sat 21/05/2011 Lightning Ridge Day 6 134kms  or 7-8hrs
Sun 22/05/2011 Lightning Ridge Day 7 0 no hours
Mon 23/05/2011 Brewarrina Day 8 211kms or 10-12hrs
Tue 24/05/2011 Bourke Day 9 98kms  or 5-6hrs
Wed 25/05/2011 Cobar Day 10 160kms or 8-9hrs
Thu 26/05/2011 Cobar Day 11 0 no hours
Fri 27/05/2011 Mt Hope Day 12 161kms or 8-9hrs
Sat 28/05/2011 Hillston Day 13 94kms  or 5-6hrs
Sun 29/05/2011 Hillston Day 14 0 no hours
Mon 30/05/2011 Coleambally Day 15 174kms  or 10hrs+
Tue 31/05/2011 Strathmerton Day 16 150kms  or 7-8hrs
Wed 1/06/2011 Seymour Day 17 137kms  or 7-8hrs
Wed 1/06/2011 Melbourne Day 18 TOTAL      1970kms Catch Train

Optimistic? Yes of course, and there isn’t going to be much time available during those 18 days to repair punctures.  In fact the one day that I might have some problems with is Day 8, on which I propose to ride from Lightning Ridge to Brewarrina, a distance of 211kms.  I’ll probably need to get going before 6.00am on Day 8 and that might get me to Bree before sunset?

I am catching up with friends at Lightning Ridge, Cobar and Hillston – Attending a function at Hillston on the 28th and I don’t want to miss that – I have allowed an extra night in each of those places.  Presumably handy recovery time.

But then I will be riding on thorn resistant tubes and before I start my trip I will be filling the tubes  – using my new valve repair tool (see pic. below) to remove the valves off each of the tyres (I can do this because the tyres on my Trike have standard car valves) – filling the ‘thorn resistant tubes’ with TYRE SHIELD an Australian made product that stops flat tyres before they stop you.

The Tyre Shield came from and was recommended by the staff at Tom’s Cycle City – 16 Johdararyan Avenu Griffith NSW.   I wish I had received this type of advice earlier.

I plan to stay in motels along the way and at this stage I am not planning on bringing my camping gear, bar the stove.  However, it is possible that I could be convinced otherwise.  Readers of this blog will be the first to find out if I change my mind on the camping gear and NO, I am not sure if all of the places on my itinerary have motel accommodation, but I will be making it my business to find out before I leave the Sunshine Coast.

My Valve repair tool came in this packaging and was purchased in Coleambally.